Le Bilboquet Is A Wonderful New Addition To Dallas Eating

New Yorkers have lengthy enjoyed the usually crowded but exquisite French bistro Le Bilboquet on East 63rd Road in close proximity to Madison, on the Higher East Facet. Now it has occur to Dallas, not just in identify but accompanied by its splendidly gifted chef and some of its New York staff members. It occupies that venerable area on Travis in the Knox/Henderson place that has lengthy been dedicated to superb French cuisine, the departed and much-skipped L’Ancestral.

When I to start with observed the glitzy announcement of Le Bilboquet’s new opening in North Texas in the 2013 Cafe Challenge of Modern Luxurious Dallas (which rated it 2nd of the “5 Most Remarkable New Dining establishments” in Dallas and gave it a breathless critique), I did not make the New York connection and read it by slip-up as “Le Bibliothèque” French for “library” or often even “bookcase,” or more memorably in Le Bibliothèque nationale de France” which is France’s equal of our National Archives in Washington.

No, this attractive new gem of a Dallas restaurant, Le Bilboquet, is named for that charming French game of childhood the place you try to flip a ball on a string into a cup on a adhere — a adhere that has a single conclusion of the string attached to it. There is an American version of the game the place the string is replaced with a strong rubber band, producing the shifting ball that much harder to capture in the cup. So that is the meaning of bilboquet.

How the restaurant area has modified! And for the superior! Everyone who remembers L’Ancestral will come across the interior of Le Bilboquet unrecognizable. Long gone are the dreadful pictures of historical ancestors on the partitions. The partitions by themselves, in simple fact, are long gone. They have been opened up, replaced with substantial crystal-distinct glass windows admitting a superb pure north Texas gentle. The tables are more compact (and potentially too intently packed together), and the average age of the diners has fallen from about 70 to thirty. In shorter, almost everything about the location on Travis you may possibly remember has been reworked, and much for the superior.

The interior is as splendidly common as the food stuff, and I was pleased to come across glossy white tablecloths, freshly picked flowers at each individual table, and of class an unforeseen bathtub of pure gentle. The chef at New York’s Le Bilbouquet, “Momo” Sow, has moved with a several of his critical associates to Dallas, and the effects are stunning. The food stuff is good Parisian bistro fare, with a soupçon of Momo’s eager appreciation for cuisine novelle and his personal distinctive multinational fashion, however usually with a strong French accent.

My partner and I the two started with a gentle appetizer, salade de crabe et avocat, that was delectable and flavorful without getting filling. The refreshing lump crabmeat was proper out of the ocean, combined with thinly sliced youthful onions, a trace of lemon in the whipped mayonnaise, and of class avocado and some greens — minced lettuce and celery. It was out of this world.

For the entrée we the two chose a veal dish cooked in a gentle lemon sauce, escalope de veau au citron, potentially the most tender morsels of veal I’ve experienced in the past 12 months, in a delicate sauce and served with a refreshing salad and of class fried string potatoes cooked the proper way (I are unable to bear to simply call them “french fries” which in The usa are ordinarily cooked in vegetable oil, which renders them tasteless, even if allegedly “fantastic for your heart”). It was wonderful to have the salad served with the key class, relatively than in advance of it. The veal was just excellent, since Momo understands that the most vital thing to remember about delicious veal is what takes place to it lengthy in advance of you start out to cook it. The cutlets have to be pounded to great tenderness, and these just melted in your mouth. They had been excellent.

For dessert we the two experienced a magnificently refreshing crème brûlée that was plainly created minutes in advance of it was served to us. Outstanding! Then, to wake us the two up, my mate experienced a cappuccino and I experienced an espresso although we watched the extremely chic crowd of see-and-be-found youthful males and women of all ages from Highland Park who seemed to be extremely very well-to-do and pleased to shell out two or three hrs more than lunch. Believe in cash are a superb invention, and not unheard of in Dallas. And they make for attractive diners.

The service was superb and prompt (our youthful waiter was a bright university student who is ending his to start with 12 months at in college or university). A lunch to remember, and a single to be certainly recurring, and shortly.

Le Bilboquet is at 4514 Travis Road in between Knox and Armstrong. It is often booked good, particularly for evening meal, so you will certainly want to make a reservation by calling (469) 730-2937.